Buenos Aires

Travel Mementos

 Modern Map Art

Modern Map Art

Over the last few months, I've been reminiscing about my trip abroad. I have many wonderful memories of our time in South America. My favorite way to remember is to look back at my mementos I collected throughout the trip. I have a lapis lazuli ring from Santiago, an alpaca sweater from Cusco, and slippers from Buenos Aires. Whenever I wear those pieces I am transported to a moment in time. I also collected some wonderful art pieces during my trip, including my vintage travel posters from Torres del Paine, a piece from a local street artist in Valparaiso and a gorgeous map of Buenos Aires.

I'm so fascinating looking at a map of a city like Buenos Aires because the city feels so big while you are there. It's crazy that a map is able to capture the magnitude of Buenos Aires small enough to fit in my apartment! It is seriously mind-blowing and I'm so grateful to be able to look at it and remember one of my best adventures in life.

If you are interested in your own beautiful map of Buenos Aires, check out my friends at Modern Map Art


What are some of your favorite mementos from your travels? 

This is a sponsored post, however the opinions are 100% authentic and my own.

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When Your Expecations Don't Meet the Reality

Our last few weeks in Buenos Aires went by so quickly. We were busy visiting veterinarians getting Posey vaccinated and completing the necessary paperwork for our travel to Chile. Although we had a lot of on our plate, we still managed to squeeze in some of our favorite activities, including our trip to Iguazu Falls and a day in the La Boca neighborhood.Iguazu Falls and a day in the La Boca neighborhood.

In total we spent 3 months in Buenos Aires and leaving was a little bittersweet. I enjoyed my time in Buenos Aires, although it was a difficult few months. As I mentioned in previous posts, I struggled a lot with our AirBNB apartment. I also had to deal with personal drama back in the states. It was very stressful and upsetting, especially since I couldn’t address the issues head on. Thankfully I have been able to put most of this behind me and I am in a much better place.

In addition to struggling with the external forces out of my control, I also struggled with Buenos Aires itself. I had built up this image of Buenos Aires in my head, that it would be this magical place and experience.  I was told and expected to see “Paris of South America”. Unfortunately for me, Buenos Aires didn’t live up to the hype I had created. I thought it would be similar to many European cities due to its heritage, but it wasn’t. It wasn’t what I imagined South America to be either.

Please don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed Buenos Aires and I will be forever grateful for my time there. I just didn’t love it as much as I thought I would. I can always tell how much I like a place when I can picture myself living there permanently. For me, Buenos Aires is just too big a city and is too far from other destinations (beaches, mountains, wine country). I am also grateful that Buenos Aires was not our only destination.

Since leaving Buenos Aires, we have been in Santiago Chile and we love it! It has been such a different experience than Buenos Aires. We took a month of Spanish classes, met tons of friends from all over the world, and have been able to explore Chile. We are also really happy with our apartment and the location, which is a huge plus!

While in Argentina, we met a couple from New York, who relocated to Buenos Aires for work nine months earlier. They asked us about our first impressions and we were candid with them saying plainly, “It’s not what we expected”. They told us they felt the same way when they first moved there. They too were in a rundown apartment and struggled to like their new location. The couple told us it took them over six months to warm up to Buenos Aires and now they really enjoy their time there.

I remember when I first moved to San Francisco, it took me a long time to really fall in love with the city. The first few months were really fun but after the excitement wore off, I had a hard time. I didn’t have many friends, I didn’t like my major, and I hated having to walk alone at night after class in the cold from the bus stop to home. I didn’t give up though. I changed my circumstances. I joined a sorority, changed my major, and brought my car to the city.

Similarly, the New York couple living in Buenos Aires had to change their circumstances in order to be happier. They moved apartments, joined “Meetup” groups, made friends, and started to build their life there. For us, we changed our settings by moving to Santiago, cashing in the “authentic” housing for a new high rise, and assimilating more into the culture by making an effort to learning the language. These factors have had a positive effect on our current situation.

I think big changes are difficult for a lot of people, especially when the reality doesn’t live up to the expectation. My best advice it to be honest with yourself about what is making you unhappy. It’s sometimes easier to sweep your feelings under the rug and pretend like everything is okay, but that is not the healthiest way to live your life.

Once you’ve figured what you are struggling with, find out how you can change your circumstances. Sometimes I get overwhelmed with the “mountain” in front of me and I feel stuck. If you can break it down into smaller pieces, it’s much easier to achieve. After that, it’s all about taking proactive steps to make your situation a better one! Because no one is going to save you and the only person you can change is yourself. Once you become your own advocate in life, things will get better! 

Has the reality of a situation ever not met your expectations? 

Please leave your comments below! I look forward to hearing from you!

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10 Budget Friendly Activities in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires was the first stop on our South American adventure. We spent our first THREE months there! The tough part about our time in Buenos Aires was finding inexpensive or free activities. Since it was our first stop, it was important to watch where our money was going. The thing about Buenos Aires is that it felt like every time we stepped out the door that money would fly out of our wallets. A lot of activities geared towards tourists are super pricey and not authentic. I started looking for inexpensive and authentic activities. Here are my favorites! 

1. Eating Choripán con Provoleta in Puerto Madero

Choripán is a typical South American sandwich made with grilled chorizo sausage served on a crunch bread roll. You haven’t lived until you’ve tried it with grilled provolone cheese (Provoleta). I like to add chimichurri sauce and fresh jalapenos, but different places have a variety of toppings to choose from. The best places to get choripán is from a food truck. We liked to visit the Puerto Madero neighborhood across from the “Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve”, where one can find dozens of food trucks serving cheap choripán and other local sandwiches. Puerto Madero is an awesome port neighborhood that has been revitalized in recent years and is a fun area to explore. 

2. Tango Show

No visit to Buenos Aires is complete without seeing a tango show. Tango was born in Buenos Aires’ working-class port neighborhoods. Today, you can still sit in Plaza Dorrego sipping a latte and watch the tango dancers perform. There are dinner tango shows all over the city and from what I’ve heard, it is a sort of tourist trap. The experience is expensive, the food is not that great, but the tango performances are breathtaking. If you would rather skip the dinner and just see a wonderful show for a reasonable price, check out Centro Cultural Borges for their Bien de Tango Show. It is a fantastic experience that many locals enjoy for just a fraction of the cost of the other shows.

3. Fuerza Bruta

This show cannot be missed! Fuerza Bruta is a mesmerizing live music performance and aerial show that is truly unique. Fuerza Bruta originated in Buenos Aires, is running Off-Broadway in New York, and has been performed all over the world. Besides the incredible immersive experience Fuerza Bruta offers, it’s also easy on the wallet, only costing about $20 USD a ticket. Afterwards, we grabbed drinks at a nearby speakeasy called Florería Atlántico, which looks like a cute little flower shop from the outside. Once in the flower shop, you walk through a hidden door that looks like cooler and into the basement to find a awesome little nautical bar serving good drinks, food, and atmosphere. 

4. Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery is one of Buenos Aires most known attractions. Stretching over several city blocks, The Recoleta Cemetery is a well maintained, massive and magnificent burial grounds for Argentina’s former rich, famous and military elite. As we wandered through the labyrinth of mausoleums, we noticed that tombs ranged from simple to lavish. Crafted out of granite, bricks, and stone, many of the mausoleums feature beautiful wrought iron gates, sculptures and stained glass windows. If you are ever visiting Buenos Aires, I highly recommend visiting the Recoleta Cemetery, especially around dusk. It is free to visit the mausoleum and they offer free tours on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11 am in English. For free tours in Spanish, visit on Tuesdays and Fridays at 11 am and 3 pm.

5. Parrilla Asado

Argentineans love their meat, especially steak! They eat it with almost every meal. In Argentina, steaks are mostly cooked Asado style, on a parrilla grill. The meat is top quality and the cooking technique creates such a depth of flavor in the steak that only chimichurri sauce accompanies such a tasty steak. If you are a steak lover, then you will be in steak heaven in Buenos Aires. Best of all, the cost of steaks in Argentina are very inexpensive, even at nice restaurants.

6. La Boco

La Boca is working class barrio (neighborhood) situated at the mouth of the Matanza-Riachuelo River. La Boca is also known for its brightly colored building and street art in the Caminito and their fútbol stadium ‘La Bombonera’. La Boca is worth the visit even though it’s jammed with tourist and the restaurateurs can be a little pushy. Though this neighborhood is a major tourist destination, it’s important to not to stay there too late. It can be dangerous at night.

7. San Telmo Market

Every Sunday on Avenue Defensa the  Feria de San Telmo takes place.  Feria de San Telmo is an outdoor street fair with hundreds of vendors selling beautiful antiques, unique souvenirs, and art. At the Plaza Dorrego, there are typically tango dancers and other creative street performers including windblown living statues and reggae bands. Throughout the fair there are street food vendors selling tasty treats likes churros, burritos, roasted nuts, dulce de leche filled crepes, grilled sausage sandwiches and empanadas. It’s definitely a fun way to spend your Sunday in Buenos Aires and find some inexpensive gems.

8. Argentine Cooking Class

One of the best experiences I had in Buenos Aires, was taking an Argentine Cooking Class with Norma. We learned how to make and eat traditional food like empanadas, lentil stew and alfajores. We got to drink Mate tea and two Argentinean wines, Malbec and Torrontes. Overall it was a fun afternoon learning about Argentine’s food culture. It might be a little bit more of splurge that the other things on this list, but it’s worth every penny.

9. Opera Show at Teatro Colon

Teatro Colon is one of the most beautiful opera houses in the world. Tickets to the opera range from $15 USD to $500. We only had a partial view of the stage so if I had to do it over again, I probably would have spent the extra money for better seats. If the opera is not your thing, you can still tour the theater during the day.

10. Explore Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is an international and local art museum in the Recoleta neighborhood. We spent the afternoon taking in the renaissance, baroque, impressionism, and naturalism paintings, statues, and artifacts from all over the world including famous works of art from Monet, Van Gogh, Manet, and Rembrandt. A great way to spend a rainy afternoon and best of all it’s free! Also check out the nearby Floralis Genérica statue.

What's your favorite budget friendly travel activity? 

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Iguazu Falls...Is It Worth It?

The answer is yes, although it wasn’t an easy decision to make. For those of you who are not familiar with Iguazu Falls, it is the world’s largest waterfall which spans across three countries including Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina. When I say largest, I mean most volume of water per second and it’s massive!

Though Iguazu is straight out of a postcard, my husband and I debated if it was worth the high price tag. Two-hour flights were going for $250 each and a seventeen-hour bus ride was not much cheaper. We always have to factor what we are going to do with our dog Posey before booking these side trips. When we’ve traveled in the past, we have learned that Posey prefers to stay home rather than being uprooted to somewhere new. Since she is potty trained on potty pads, we feel comfortable leaving her for a few days alone. 

After chatting with many locals about their must see places in Argentina, Iguazu Falls repeatedly came up. So we decided to go for it. Thankfully, Drew received an early 30th birthday present from my parents, which helped cover some of the costs. We booked our trip for 3 days and 2 nights in Puerto Iguazu, Argentina.

We decided to focus our time on the Argentina side of the falls for a few reasons:

  1. We only had a few days.
  2. There are expensive reciprocity fees to visit Brazil & Paraguay. We aren’t planning on visiting those countries throughout the rest of our trip, so it wasn’t worth the added cost.
  3. The Argentine side of Iguazu is more extensive and one can get up close to the falls. 

After our flight was delayed for a few hours, we finally made it to Puerto Iguazu. The first thing I learned about Iguazu is taxis are not cheap! Unlike in Buenos Aires, taxis in Iguazu don’t offer a mileage/minute flat fee, this allows taxi drivers to set their own prices. Expect to pay premium taxi prices for popular locations like the airport and the park.  You may want to look into renting a car if you plan on staying for longer than a few days.

After a 20-minute ride, our taxi pulled onto a dirt and cobblestone road. We had arrived at our hotel, La Aldea De La Selva Lodge, a rustic jungle lodge. I was immediately impressed with our hotel, which I found through Booking.com. I like to book my hotel rooms through Booking.com for a few reasons including free cancellations and “genius” booking perks. Once you become a “genius” booker, you get discounts on rooms and access to other promotions. I was able to upgrade us to a junior suite at La Aldea De La Selva Lodge for only $2 more! Read here to learn more about which other travel apps I like to use. 

We were escorted by staff to our room on a elevated wooden walkway. Our room backed into the jungle and featured a large porch with a comfy hammock. Because we arrived in Iguazu later than expected, we decided to explore the town and have lunch.

The town Puerto Iguazu is pretty small, and other than the park, there is not a whole lot to do there. They do have a casino, nature and animal reserves, and La Aripuca, a replica of the native Guarani people’s customs and natural habitat.

Early the next day we took a cab to Iguazu Falls park, which is only about 20 minutes away. We purchased our entrance tickets (around $22 USD each), grabbed a map of the park and set off. Even for a weekday, the place was packed! You can take a guided tours through the park although it didn’t seem worth it for a few reasons.

  1. The park is so easy to navigate without a guide.
  2. There are at least 50 people in each group.
  3. They move like molasses so if you like to walk quickly a tour is not for you.
  4. If you are interested in a tour because you want to learn more about the culture and environment, I would suggest a private tour. With that many people in a group, it’s almost impossible to be within earshot of the guide.

Instead of a tour, we spoke to staff at the information desk who were incredibly helpful. They gave us suggestions about which routes to take and when. Following their direction, we started our hike on the upper trail. To be honest, I was expecting it to be like a real hike with uneven terrain and steep hills. It’s not like that at all. In fact, most of the trails are raised platforms navigating you above the jungle floor, rivers, and waterfall ledges. There are a few staircases to help get the heart pumping but overall it’s a pretty mild hike. 

The upper trail of Parque Iguazu takes you on top the falls to overlook the force and scale of this wonder. The lower trail gets you up close so that you can feel the magnitude of the water literally hit you in the face. Iguazu is so incredible among the turquoise waters, lush jungle setting, natural rainbows, and the grandiose waterfalls that words can’t describe how truly spectacular and beautiful it is.

While walking through the park, we encountered monkeys, birds, and coatis, an animal similar to a raccoon. The coatis are adorable but like the raccoon they can be ferocious, stealing food, biting tourists and attacking each other. We decided to have lunch at the park, which was sort of a mistake. The options for food is pretty limited which included Subway sandwiches, empanadas, and other fried snacks. We settled for a small sandwich. During our lunch the coatis were up to no good, stealing unknowing tourist’s food when several monkeys came along. The monkeys ended up stealing the food from the coatis, who were not too happy. 

We finished our day with a boat tour to San Martin Island. Other boat tours are available that will take you up close to the falls, but the steep price tags discouraged us. You can also get soaked, and I wasn’t prepared to have my camera and cellphones destroyed. The one thing we did skip was the train that takes you up to "Devil’s Throat". The line for the train was at least an hour long and our feet were tired, or as Drew likes to say “Our kitten’s are mewing”. We also had scheduled to have our morning taxi driver come pick us up, which was stupid because he never showed up. I do regret not going to "Devil’s Throat" especially since we waited around for 45 minutes for our driver that never came. 

We were at the park for a total of 6 hours which was enough for us. It is certainly doable to see Argentinian side of the park in one day. 

We ended up taking a very expensive taxi ride from the park to our hotel and resting the rest of the afternoon. I even took a nap in our hammock! We had dinner at La Terraza, which was excellent. We split our favorite, grilled provolone and chorizo. I also had grilled shrimp with risotto and Drew had a tenderloin and fries. I would highly recommend this place. The service was outstanding and the food was delicious. We turned in early for our early morning flight back to Buenos Aires the next day. 

Overall Iguazu Falls is incredible and should be on everyone’s bucket list. The town is nothing to write home about but the park is worth the visit. You don’t need much time to experience the falls but do expect to pay a lot for your visit. 

If you are planning a trip to Iguazu, feel free to email me or comment below for more information. Be sure to check out the Globe Trotter Girls post "Things Nobody Tells You About Iguazu" for more dos and don'ts for visiting Iguazu.  

What is the one place you have on your bucket list? 

Please leave your comments below! I look forward to hearing from you.

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Argentine Cooking Class

I love cooking! Food plays a big part in my life. I am the type of girl who plans my day around my meals. What am I going to make for dinner? Where am I going to eat for lunch? When I travel, I make food bucket lists, plotting out all of the restaurants I want to try. After my Week One – Buenos Aires post, my good friend Kathryn from San Francisco suggested we take a cooking class. She said it is a fun activity, a great way to experience the culture, and a skill you can apply back home. I began researching Argentine cooking classes and found several options including Tierra Negra Cooking Classes, Cecilia D’Imperio, and Cook Abroad. Eventually, I stumbled upon Norma Soued’s Argentinean Cooking Class through The Travel Chica’s blog. The location, menu, and the price that Argentine Cooking Class offers fit exactly what I was looking for. After reaching out to the Norma, she was quick to respond and offered a winter discount. Score! I begged Drew to come with me and we signed up for the following weekend. 

On a chilly Saturday morning, Drew and I arrived in Belgrano, a northern neighborhood of Buenos Aires, for our Argentinian cooking class. Those who know me understand I am not a morning person so, of course we were running late but we were able to hop into a cab and managed to make it on time. We arrived at a well maintained 70’s style apartment building and were ushered upstairs by our host. We were greeted by Norma, a sweet woman in her mid-50’s who told us her phycology practice pays the bills but sharing in Argentinean cooking classes two times week is her passion. We were introduced to Maud, our cooking classmate originally from France and currently living in Buenos Aires. She has been working in the city for almost a year as an apartment finder for expats. 

We sat down and started class with a glass of water and briefly reviewed the recipes we were to prepare. The menu included carne (beef) empanadas, traditional lentil stew, and alfajores, a lemon sugar cookie with dulce de leche filling. We washed our hands and headed into the kitchen. Norma told us we would be working on the lentil stew and the empanada filling at the same time since they shared many of the same ingredients. Norma had prepped in advanced some of the menu items including soaking the lentils, chopping the chorizo for the stew, dicing the white onions and measuring out the raisins. Drew started chopping red and green peppers and I sliced green onions, squash, and hard boiled eggs. Maud sautéed all the onions and peppers in one pan. Once they were soft/sweating, Maud added half the mixture into the pot of cooking lentils and then the squash and chorizo. We cooked the ground beef in the original pan and finished by throwing in the raisins and hard-boiled eggs.

We let the carne mixture cool while the lentil stew cooked. We moved into the study to start making the alfajores cookie dough. Norma explained the different ingredients and we measure out the dry and wet ingredients into separate bowls. Drew was in charge of mixing and I slowly added the dry ingredients. When the dough was set, Norma brought out the carne empanada filling and chilled empanada wrappers. Norma walked us through the process of filling the wrappers, sealing and braiding the edges, and then we attempted to recreate the same process. After we finished all the empanadas, we brushed the outside with an egg wash which gives that distinct empanada shell. We moved back into the kitchen and put the empanadas in the oven. 

While the empanadas cooked and the lentil stew slowly simmered, we took out the alfajores dough from the fridge. Norma split the dough in half, floured the surface and rolled out the dough to a quarter inch thick. We took turns cutting the cookie dough and placing it on a cookie sheet. While the cookies cooked in the oven, Norma brought us back to the study. She explained that the cookie we made would be for the next class and the cookies we would fill were made by the previous class. We spread sweet and sticky dulce de leche onto a cookie and placed another cookie on top. To finish, we rolled the alfajores in grated coconut. 

After our cooking lesson, we sat down in the living room for our feast. We tried two Argentinean wines, Malbec and Torrontes. Malbec is one of my favorite red wines! Norma and her assistant brought out the lentil stew and poured everyone a bowl. The stew was hot, thick, hardy and perfect for our chilly afternoon. It was so tasty that I had a second bowl. After the stew, we tried our empanadas, which were hot, flakey, and rich. Norma said she liked to dip her empanadas in chimichurri, a dry seasoning mixed with olive oil and red wine vinegar. It helped cut some of the richness and added extra spice and flavor.

After having too many empanadas, Norma brought out her Mate (MAH-tay) cups and thermos. Yerba Mate is a highly caffeinated tea containing several vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and antioxidants. Mate is social activity in Argentina. According to Guyraki “The first step of the ceremony is the preparation of the gourd. Typically, the cebador (mate server) prepares mate for a friend or a group of friends. The cebador drinks the first one or two gourd-fulls, testing the waters to ensure that only a smooth running mate is shared. Then the gourd is refilled with water and passed counter-clockwise with the bombilla (straw-filter) facing the recipient. Each person drinks the entire gourd: "you share the vessel, not the liquid."  The recipient of the gourd has as much time as needed to finish the gourd-full. After the last few sips of the mate are gone, the gourd is returned with the bombilla facing the cebador.  The gourd is refilled with hot water and follows around the circle, continuing in this fashion until the mate is.  If someone has had enough mate, they simply say gracias (thank you) to indicate that they are finished.” 

At first, I didn’t really like the taste of Mate. It was bitter and grassy tasting but it grew on me after the second cup. Mate was especially good with the fresh alfajores! What I do like about mate is that it has similar amount of caffeine to coffee, but it doesn’t make me feel jittery or upset my stomach. Since our class, Drew and I have each gotten our own Mate cups from the San Telmo market.

Overall, cooking Argentinian food was fun and a wonderful experience. If you ever visit Buenos Aires, I would highly recommend booking a cooking class with Norma. She is friendly, speaks English well, the class is affordable and the food is delicious! Not only did I enjoy cooking each dish, but I also loved learning about the culture and traditions of Argentina. I am looking forward to making all of the dishes again for my friends and family!

Have you ever taken a cooking class while traveling? What is your favorite international dish to cook?

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June 2016 Buenos Aires

The saga continues with our AirBNB apartment. The apartment strikes back. Here’s a quick recap of what’s been happening. After a month in Buenos Aires we decided to have a cleaning lady tidy up our rental apartment. Afterwards, she accused our dog of urinating on the hardwood floors, which actually turned out to be a water leak in the plumbing. We also found A LOT of mold in the apartment. To get the whole scoop, check out my post Week 4 & 5 Buenos Aires.

We informed our host about the situation and after a few days a contractor came over to assess the apartment’s condition. He determined the water leak was not a big deal and they could wait to fix it after our stay was done in July. About a week later we noticed that the water leak was spreading to more areas within the apartment. When we stepped on some of the floorboards water was actually shooting out of the floors! We demanded the contractor come over again and address the issue immediately. They got to work quickly by breaking open walls, tearing out the bathtub, replacing pipes, and fixing the water pressure in the bathroom sink. After three days of dusty and noisy construction, the bathroom was fixed and the apartment was a messy disaster. One day after the contractor left, the hot water tap in the bathroom sink came undone, spewing water all over the bathroom. This forced us to turn out off the hot water, and the contractor couldn’t come back for several days, meaning no showers or baths. The contractor came back and “fixed” the bathroom sink, and within only about 5 hours for the sink to broke again. After a scathing email to our host, the contractor came back the next day and replaced both sink taps. Hopefully, this is the end to our current apartment drama, although the massive amounts of mold still pose a threat. Thankfully we are leaving this apartment in about 3 weeks and moving on to a new, modern apartment in Santiago, Chile.

Despite the issues with our apartment, we have been having a fantastic time in Buenos Aires. We attended several InterNations events, including beer at Cerveza Old Mule, fish and chips dinner  at an English speaking event at Chipper, and mingling about at a happy hour event at Snatch Bar. Being a part of InterNations has opened us up many new experiences and we have met a lot of wonderful people from all over the world.

One night we decided to go see an opera at the world famous Teatro Colon. Neither my husband or I had ever been to the opera and Buenos Aires was the perfect place to experience it. We were lucky to buy our tickets online the night before. The tickets were pretty cheap (around $30 USD) even though we only had a partial view of the stage. If I had to do it over again, I probably would have spent the extra money for better seats since we were basically leaning over the railing to get a good view. Although we didn’t have the best seats, we still had a great night. We picked up our tickets an hour before the show and decided to grab drinks at a nearby hotel bar, Patio #378. Obviously a Manhattan for Drew and a Pisco Sour for me.

The opera was incredible. Setting was in ancient Greece, Dido and Aeneas is a story about love and loss. The Queen of Carthage, Dido, is forsaken by the Trojan prince, Aeneas. Overcome by the grief of her loss, she dies of a broken heart. The performance was gripping from the very start. At one point the singing performers were floating and swimming in a large tank of water while their gauzy clothes glided around them, creating beautiful ethereal movements. The rest of the performance was filled with stunning costumes, beautiful dancing, and incredible voices. In case you are interested in learning more about Dido and Aeneas, here is a preview.

After the theater, we had dinner at La Estancia Asador Criollo, a traditional asador restaurant just a few blocks from Teatro Colon. An Argentinian Criollo Spit, a large standing barbecue, stood in the window roasting three large racks of ribs. Once we were seated, we were greeted by a sweet older man. We ordered a 5 course special that included a bottle of wine, carne empanadas, salad, grilled provolone with chorizo sausage, an assorted platter of grilled meats, and of course, dessert. The food was amazing and we were impressed when our meat platter came out on a sizzling grill. My favorite was the grilled provolone and chorizo sausage. It was so rich and flavorful! Everything was even more flavorful with Argentine chimichurri on a crunchy toasted bread roll. We were so full that we boxed up most of our entree meat platter although I still managed to eat my dulce de leche flan.

The following day we decided to escape the rain and cold by visiting the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.  It is an international and local art museum in the Recoleta neighborhood. Before the museum we had lunch at a nearby burger restaurant called Dellepiane. The food was okay but it was no comparison to our favorite burger joint, La Cresta.  We spent the afternoon taking in the renaissance, baroque, impressionism, and naturalism paintings from all over the world including famous works of art from Monet, Van Gogh, Manet, and Rembrandt.

One weekend we looked into seeing a tango show. While doing research online, I saw that prices for a dinner tango show were upwards of $150 USD per person and the reviews for the food were terrible. Through my investigation, I found a small list of the Top Tango Shows in Buenos Aires from Travel and Leisure. On the list was Centro Cultural Borges, which offers inexpensive, yet world class tango shows 4 nights a week. The show doesn’t include dinner but the ticket price was a fraction of the cost at only $25 per person. They don’t sell tickets online, so the day of the show we walked to Centro Cultural Borges to purchased our tickets. Once we had our tickets we decided to window shop in a beautiful mall connected to the cultural center on Floridia street. Later in the evening, we came back for our tango show, Bien de Tango. Our seats were great and the show was filled with mesmerizing dancing, extravagant costumes, and a live orchestra including a very talented accordion player. The accordion player might have been the star of the show. It was an incredible experience I will never forget.

 Centro Cultural Borges - Buenos Aires Argentina - Tip Top Planning

To finish up June, I took a salsa lesson with a small women’s group from InterNations at La Viruta. Though our trip has been amazing, it’s also been difficult being away from our friends and family. My girl’s night out was the perfect medicine. Afterward, Drew met me for dinner at Nola, a Creole restaurant in Palermo. We ordered spicy gumbo and the daily special, chicken and waffles. It was the most incredible and delicious meal we had so far in Buenos Aires, especially the sweet and salty chicken and waffles. We will definitely be back!

What is your favorite form of entertainment when you travel?

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Week Four & Five - Buenos Aires

We’ve been getting out more and more the last few weeks even though winter is definitely upon Buenos Aires. It’s been raining a lot and the temperature has dropped to the low 50’s.

Drew wanted to find a grocery store that sold turkey deli meat. After some research online, he found Jumbo Supermarkets. The nearest Jumbo is in the nearby port-side neighborhood of Puerto Madero, about 25 minutes away. One late afternoon we set out in the drizzling rain to find the upscale supermarket. We found more than we expected! A Wholefood style store on the bottom floor of a brand new high-rise. We loaded up on deli meat, gourmet cheeses, fresh sandwich rolls, canned black beans, peanut butter, and craft beer. We wandered each aisle for an hour & half and loaded up on over $100 in food!

A few days later, we attended our second InterNations event, a small dinner at Siamo nel Forno, a Napolitano style pizza restaurant. Check out my recent post to read about our first InterNations event.

We arrived at Siamo nel Forno in Palermo and were warmly greeted by the group. After introductions, we learned that our dinner companions came from all over the globe including Argentina, Italy, Israel, Chile, and Brazil. As the beer started flowing, the group chatted about work, our world travel experiences, and hometowns. It got pretty confusing when our group started conversing in multiple languages including English, Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese, though they made a conscious effort to speak in English for us. They even gave us some great advice about our upcoming trips to Patagonia and Atacama.

Drew and I ordered the “Margherita con Salsiccia”. The thin crust pizza was topped with tangy marinara sauce, rich pork and fennel sausage, fresh buffalo mozzarella and basil which came piping hot out of the Italian wood fire oven. Siamo nel Forno’s pizza stands out among Buenos Aires’ saturated pizza market with its traditional and unique pizza toppings. Each pizza is made with high-quality ingredients imported from Italy. It is certainly on par with some of our favorite pizza places in San Francisco like Tony’s and Gioia and is by far the best pizza we have had in Buenos Aires.

A few days later, Drew and I decided to have a date night. Earlier in the week, we explored the Westside of the neighborhood. We found a cute tree-lined street full of restaurants, bakeries, and ice cream parlors and decided to head there for our night out. After viewing the menu at a few bistros we chose to have dinner at a charming restaurant with an old world vibe called Club Social. We were greeted by our friendly and stunning waitress, who helped us decipher the menu. We split a Caesar salad to start. I ordered a pisco sour and oso bucco with creamy risotto. Drew ordered a beer and ribs with a baked potato. We had ourselves quite the feast and had the leftovers boxed up.

After dinner, we decided to have a nightcap at our neighborhood speakeasy bar called Doppelgänger. They had a huge list of specialty cocktails broken into categories like martinis, whiskey cocktails, creamy cocktails, sparkling cocktails, unique cocktails, and citrus cocktails. Drew ordered an old fashion and I had myself a vodka citrus cocktail. Doppelgänger delivered awesome cocktail and interesting people watching with lots of PDA.

The rest of the week was slow for us as we dodged the rain, cooked, and watched YouTube. I caught up on my guilty pleasures, Dancing with the Stars and the Bachelorette. We decided to hire a cleaning lady our AirBNB host recommended to tidy up our apartment. For $20 she would clean the apartment and water the plants for 4 hours. While the cleaning lady came, we put Posey in her Sherpa and set out for happy hour at a local brewery, Antares. We drank a few pints and shared an order of nachos. After the brewery, we decided to go to dinner. Though it was early for dinner by Argentina’s standards, we found an open nearby Indian restaurant called Delhi Masala. I ordered Masala tea with milk, which is made with cardamom, cloves, peppercorns, star anise, ginger, and cinnamon. We split an order of chicken masala, saffron rice, and garlic naan bread. We told our waitress that we wanted the chicken to be muy picante (very spicy). When our food arrived, we dug in. The food was pretty good although the chicken was not spicy. Luckily, we were given a few sauces including Raita, a cucumber and yogurt sauce, and a spicy paste. The paste helped kick up the spice level a few notches.

We came home to clean apartment and a sleepy dog. Unfortunately, a few days later our AirBnB host sent us a message saying that the cleaning lady complained about the condition of the apartment. She claimed that Posey had peed and we had ruined the apartment. She even accused us of stealing her sheets and couch cover! We were totally flabbergasted by these allegations. We have been diligent about taking Posey out to go to the bathroom and the apartment was spotless after the cleaning. I took photographs of the “condition” and of all the sheets and couch cover. I wrote her back disputing the claims and sent pictures. Later that night, we received a message saying she still believed that Posey had peed and that she was taking it to AirBnB. I asked where the cleaning lady claimed to find the dog urine and I was told it was under the desk in the office/closet area. Our host told me the area had been cleaned with bleach. Then she hit us with a $300 fee to have the cleaner come once a week and pay for the bedding and rugs cleaned twice throughout our stay. We had 72 hours to counter or pay.

Before responding, we decided to examine the area where the “urine” was found and what we discovered truly shocked us! We didn’t find any evidence (smell or stains) of dog urine. However, we did realize there is a ton of mold, water damage, and water leaking! The entire wall under the desk was, and still is, bubbling with mold and water damage. There is water leaking through the seams in the floor and into the bookcase resting against the wall. I took pictures of the evidence and wrote my response. We then wrote AirBnB our side of the story detailing of the current situation. We offered $40 to have the cleaning lady come two more times throughout our stay. Then we waited…

Have you ever had a bad experience with an AirBnB host or landlord? Please leave your comment below.

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Week Two & Three - Buenos Aires

After an exciting week one, Drew and I have started settling into life in Buenos Aires. In our former life, we were sort of homebodies and to be honest, not much has changed. We love to cook together, watch TV, & play with Posey. I know what you are thinking, this “shut-in” is writing about her adventurous travel experiences?

Fun with Posey

Determined not to fall into a similar routine, I started researching expat groups in Buenos Aires. The first result on google was a group called InterNations. I signed myself up and began searching through the site’s features. InterNations has chapters worldwide and offers smaller subgroups based on your interests. The subgroups meet up about once a month all over the city, however when I clicked to find out where the events were being located, I realized you have to pay a monthly or yearly fee to be an active member. Not ready to commit to payment, I moved onto my usual internet activity of Facebook, twitter, and TMZ.

A few days later I check out the website again and noticed that InterNations was hosting an “official” event the following day. The official events allow basic members to attend these events for a small fee. I signed us up and looked for the best way to get there. Located in Palermo SoHo, Borges 1975 calls itself a bar, theater and bookstore. We decided to walk from San Telmo to Palermo, even though it said it was an hour and half walk. I thought to myself, it’s a great way to get to know the city, but in reality I was feeling anxious about trying to navigate the subway system during rush hour.

I am not sure why I’ve been feeling more intimidated on this trip than I have on any other trip. I am very comfortable using public transportation. In fact, there have been long stretches in my life where public transit is the only form of transportation I have. While studying abroad in Florence, Italy and throughout my time in San Francisco, I was limited to riding the bus or Muni (in SF). I rode the Eurorail throughout Italy and even took an overnight train to Paris. I’ve ridden the subways in NYC, Paris, & Rome. For our honeymoon in Croatia I hardly planned our transportation before getting there. We boarded ferries and took bus to get from one location to the next, figuring it out along the way. So why am I scared to ride the subway in Buenos Aires? I have read countless articles and blog posts about how easy it is to navigate but for some reason I didn’t feel like pushing myself into an uncomfortable situation.

So we walked, a long, long ways. After 2 hours of walking, we arrived sweaty and our feet hurting. We both wished we wore different shoes but I was determined to have a good time and put myself out there. We were greeted at the front and were given a drink token. About 20 people had already arrived and were mingling in the brick courtyard. We went straight inside to the bar for our free glass of wine to loosen up a bit. We sat inside at a table as more people arrived for the mixer. After about an hour of working the room inside and we still weren’t getting any friend action. Though our legs and feet were tired, perhaps sitting down wasn’t the most approachable way to meet people so we decided to stand outside in the courtyard.

After a few minutes of standing around, the group behind us made a comment about the terrible pizza in Buenos Aires. We turned around and jumped in the conversation. We had our in!

We were immediately introduced to the group and asked about our time in Buenos Aires. We told them that we had walked from San Telmo to Palermo and they all laughed, saying “that’s how American’s like to get to know a city”. We quickly exchanged Facebook information with two guys. The first was from Vancouver, Canada, had residency in London, and was living in Sao Palo, Brazil. The other was from Buenos Aires and had just moved back from Santiago, Chile to venture into the startup world. They had met through InterNations years ago while both living in Santiago, Chile and had stayed connected over the years. We also met a stunning beauty from Poland who had also just arrived in Buenos Aires and was traveling throughout South America by herself. She had a great job that allowed her to work remotely.

Later in the evening we got to chatting with an older woman, who was from Colorado. After her divorce, she bought an apartment in Buenos Aires and has been living here for 10 years. We also got to chatting with a charismatic Australian girl, who has been living here on and off for the last 3 years. She was completely fluent in Spanish and credited it to intensive language classes the second time she moved here. The first time she moved to Buenos Aires, she taught English, which made it difficult for her to learn Spanish. She gave us a list of restaurant recommendations in our neighborhood and a good pizza place in Palermo.

We decided to call it a night and left the event around midnight. We found a radio taxi and attempted to give the driver our destination who was unable to understand us. After a few minutes of trying to communicate, we successfully gave him cross streets to more well-known streets in our neighborhood. 30 minutes later and only getting lost once, we arrived close to our house. We were so surprised that our total fare was around $10USD.

The following week, I came down with a cold. Most of the week was spent inside except for a few walks around the neighborhood. After a few days of R&R, we ventured out in search of good pizza.

Before moving here, I learned that Argentina is the third highest pizza consumer in the world per capita, trailing behind USA & Italy. Needless to say, we had high hopes for great, unique Argentinean pizza. Unfortunately, after a few attempts, we have been pretty unimpressed. While the Argentinians are happy with their style of pizza, it’s pretty bland to us. The dough is thick and not very crispy. There is hardly any marinara sauce which is then covered by a copious amount of flavorless cheese. They usually throw on some ham and my least favorite, tomatoes! They add an olive on each slice, which is really the only flavor bite you get. They top it with a bit of seasoning but I still find myself having to add salt on top, which something I’ve never had to do before!

So after a few failed attempts at stumbling into any old pizza place, Drew started searching for the best pizza in Buenos Aires. Filo was the closest, about a 45-minute walk. It was also relatively nearby the famous La Recoleta Cemetery, which I suggested we go to after lunch.

Our walk took us through the downtown district of Buenos Aires. I loved seeing all of the business men and women chatting and laughing with co-workers on their lunch break eating at trendy fast causal restaurants.

Once we arrived at Filo, where we were quickly seated. The place is quirky with bright murals, yellow table clothes and a sexy women statue. We flipped through the menu and ordered some beers and the Escotia pizza, which included yummy tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, serrano ham, pepperoncini and fresh parmesan.  It was thin, crispy, rich and packed full of flavor.

After lunch we started our walk towards the cemetery. It was farther than I thought, but on our way we walk through several parks. As we walked through the gates of the cemetery, we were immediately transported back in time. The Recoleta Cemetery is a well maintained, massive and magnificent burial grounds for Argentina’s former rich, famous and military elite. As we wandered through the labyrinth of mausoleums, we noticed that tombs ranged from simple to lavish. Crafted out of granite, bricks, and stone, many of the mausoleums feature beautiful wrought iron gates, sculptures and stained glass windows. It’s incredible to see how people have honored their decreased ancestors with the finest materials.

Our trip to the cemetery actually brought up the conversation of how Drew and I would like to honored after we died. We both agreed cremation would be our preference however Drew also told me about this concept of being buried in a tree. You place your remains in an organic biodegradable pods or biodegradable urns which feeds the tree. I think it’s an eco-friendly option and wonderful way to be remembered.

If you are ever visiting Buenos Aires, I highly recommend visiting the Recoleta Cemetery, especially around dusk. It is free to visit the mausoleum and they offer free tours on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11 am in English. For free tours in Spanish, visit on Tuesdays and Fridays at 11 am and 3 pm.

There are many famous graves at the Recoleta Cemetery, however none are more notable than actress and first lady of Argentina, Eva (Evita) Peró. The story of how her body came to be at its final resting place is fascinating. After her early death in 1952, her body was embalmed and Argentina began constructing a massive monument, where her body was intended to be laid to rest. During the creation of the shrine, her body remained in her office at the CGT building, however military dictatorship overtook the current regime and her body was lost for 16 years! In 1971 the military revealed that her body was buried in Milan, Italy and finally brought back to Argentina in 1974. You can now visit her at the Duarte Family tomb.

Do you know of any fascinating afterlife stories? Have you ever visited a cemetery on a vacation?

Please share your comments below. We look forward to hearing from you!

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Week One - Buenos Aires

Our trip from San Francisco to Buenos Aires was a lengthy one. It included two long layovers in El Salvador and Lima, Peru. When we arrived in Buenos Aires after 35 grueling hours, we experienced our first South American perception of “on time”, when our scheduled driver arrived an hour and half late to pick us up. Posey was so tired from our journey (or waiting for the driver) that she took a solid nap in her Sherpa. As we drove into the city we could immediately tell there was a celebration. There were happy Argentinians in buses being escorted by the local police.  We saw about 15 buses driving down the freeway with people hanging out of the windows, waving Argentina flags and chanting. Later we found out that they were local futbol fans.

When we arrived to our apartment, we were greeted by a neighbor who showed us the logistics of the apartment and made us sandwiches. I don’t know if it was exhaustion or if they were made with love, but those sandwiches were so good! We skyped both of our parents and went to bed. Lying in bed on our first night in our apartment, I cried. Fear rushed over me and I couldn’t hold back my emotions. What had I gotten us into? Would the money we saved be enough? Would we actually be able to generate some income through blogging and virtual assisting to keep us a float? My tears made me even more tired and I drifted off to sleep.

Also on our first night it rained! When I woke up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom, I realized that our power had gone out. Without power meant no internet, so we couldn’t reach our landlord for help. Luckily, I brought a headlamp and after 15 minutes I found the circuit breaker hidden behind a large poster in the kitchen and turned the power back on.

The next day our goals were to find a bank, set up our new cell phones with international Sim Cards, and get groceries. We found a small grocery store right away only to find out they only take cash. One of the clerks pointed us in the right direction of an ATM. When we found the bank, the door was locked and the security guard waved his finger “NO” at us. Frustrated and confused, we went across the street to a tour group office we just found. One nice guy from the office spoke English and gave us directions to a few other banks close by.

After getting money out, we passed by a small bodega that sold sim cards or “chips”. I had done research on Argentina sim cards to get a sense of what each company offered and decide what the best company was for our needs. There are three companies that offer cellphone and data service, Movistar, Claro, and Personal. We decided to go with Movistar and put $50 Argentine pesos on each of our phones. We later found out (the hard way) that $50 only lasts for 1 week. 

Finally, we made it back to the grocery store. I love grocery shopping; however, it is a different experience in Argentina. Sometimes it feels like a game trying to figure out what some items are and at other times it can be stressful and annoying. In the States & especially California we are very fortunate to have beautiful produce year around.  So far we’ve only found very small selection of produce. In the future we’ve decided to shop at specialty stores to find better quality and wider variety of items.

I had a pretty positive first impression of our neighborhood and of Buenos Aires. It feels like you are in an Italian or French city with the very neoclassical architecture and cobblestone streets, though the vibe is a little bit grittier and more colorful. It’s not the cleanest city and there are a few stray dogs running around. There is also a lot of graffiti and street art on all the buildings. The people have been very nice and are understanding of our very broken Spanish. Our neighborhood is filled with restaurants, bars, and bodegas. There is a mix of classical antique shops and funky stores selling interesting and vibrant clothes and trinkets. The city feels very much alive especially after dark. We’ve adjusted pretty well to having a late lunch, usually around 2 or 3 pm and going out to dinner around 9 pm.

The rest of our week was pretty low key. I was busy working on my blog post, His, Hers & the Dog's Packing List and the cold Fall temperatures discouraged us from doing too much. We also wanted to be cautious about spending too much money. We did enjoy a few nice meals out including a fantastic steak dinner at a nearby restaurant called Babieca Parrilla. Though it was a great meal, our waiter seemed to make several mistakes including bringing me a different entrée and charging us more for certain items. I wish my Spanish was stronger so that I felt confident to say something. Drew suggested in the future we keep a menu in Spanish with us so that we can order our food in Spanish and double check the bill.

On Friday, we woke up to loud drumming, motorcycles, and firecrackers, which lasted from about 10 am to 5 pm. We had no idea what was going on so we went to out rooftop deck to find out. Later in the day we walked around the neighborhood to learn that the "marcha" was happening on almost every block and there were different groups representing their own flags and colors. Some streets were so crowded that we couldn't cross. It seemed as if everyone in the city had the day off and took to the streets. At first we thought it might be a protest or something to do with football. Later we found out that it was a political march of the five unions in Buenos Aires. Poor Posey was so scared from the loud noises!

On Sunday we decided to check out the famous Feria de San Telmo, an outdoor street fair with hundreds of vendors selling beautiful antiques, unique souvenirs, and art. At the Plaza Dorrego, there were several people dancing the tango and other creative street performers including windblown living statues and reggae bands. Throughout the fair there were vendors selling tasty treats likes churros, burritos, roasted nuts, dulce de leche filled crepes, grilled sausage sandwiches and empanadas. I bought a packet of incenses & a geometric sports bra and Drew got a bracelet & a wallet. It was a fun way to explore our neighborhood and end our first week.

What's your favorite way to explore a new city? 

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Leap of faith...South America bound!

We are finally taking the leap! After many years of dreaming and saving, my husband Drew and I have quit our jobs, sold our belongings and booked a one-way flight to Buenos Aires, Argentina! We are leaving our family, friends and beloved San Francisco for an adventure of a lifetime. We aren’t leaving everything behind though. Our dog Posey is joining us on our trip abroad! Most people are excited, envious and think we are a little crazy! Especially when we tell them we are bringing our 13 lb. Yorkie.

Why are we doing this? How can we afford to spend the next year aboard? How is it possible to bring our dog? Will we be working? What are our plans for afterwards? Our hope with this blog is to share our journey, passions, tips and tricks with you!

After my study abroad trip to Florence, Italy, I knew I had to live abroad again. Luckily when I told Drew of my dreams to live in another country, he was ready to take the leap, in more ways than one! Drew popped the question in May 2014 and during our engagement, we loved spending our weekends talking and dreaming about what our lives would be like living in a foreign country. We wanted to become fluent in a language, explore new cultures, try new foods, meet friends from all over and see the beauty this world has to offer. With these priorities in mind, we explored many options and finally decided to go to Buenos Aires in April 2016, about 6 months after we got married. We spent the next two years saving for our trip and planning our dream wedding!

Once we chose Argentina as our destination, we had to decide what to do with Posey! Would she come with us or would it be best to leave her with family? Drew and I wrestled with the idea for a long time. We ultimately decided we couldn’t imagine our daily life without Posey and we would find a way to make it work. We wanted to make sure she would be safe not only on the flight there but throughout our travels. Fortunately, there are plenty of great information online about the required paperwork and helpful tips for flying with pets. It has been a little harder finding information about traveling throughout South America with a dog. Part of this blog will be to share Posey’s adventures and her advice for traveling abroad.

One of the biggest challenges of we faced in making our long term trip abroad into reality was money! Would we get jobs there or search for something less conventional? I was unhappy with my corporate event planning job and tired of working long hours and weekends. I started looking into jobs that would allow me to work remotely and came across virtual assisting. Being a virtual assistant fits many of my needs and plays to my strengths. I started Tip Top Planning, combining my two biggest passions in life, event and traveling planning.

I hope you will be inspired and follow our journey! Subscribe to our mailing list below.

Sometime the only form of transportation is a leap of faith.
— Margaret Shepard

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